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The aim is to pot both red balls.
Both reds are sitting in the jaws of the pocket so you just need to touch them to
make them go in. The shot is achieved with
a double-kiss - hit low on the cue-ball with medium pace hitting the red
full ball. The double-kiss will knock the red in and push the cue-ball up
to the middle pocket where it knocks in the second red.
Cue ball contact - 6:00 
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Walter Lindrum once described this as his favourite trick shot. The aim
here is to sink the black ball.
Hit the nearest red to the side cushion to cannon into the line of reds.
The red on the extreme left is just off the cushion to give yourself a
bigger target. The black is obstructed by the red ball sitting just off the
cushion, so you need to play a cannon with the white to hit the red half-ball
and knock it out of the way. The black will run straight along the cushion
and into the pocket.
Hint: If you have trouble hitting the red in the right direction to
hit the line of reds, put a second ball in front of it and line up a plant.
This will guarantee the direction of the object ball.
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The "drop-cannon", one of the most important shots in Billiards.
The perfect placement of the yellow is 9 inches up from the centre pocket
and 14 inches out from the side cushion. A half-ball contact with top-spin
on the cue-ball will make a full-ball contact on the red. The yellow will
join the other two balls next to the red spot and (hopefully) leave
top-of-the-table position.
It is important to hit the white with the correct power - do not hit too
hard or you will knock the red out of position and the yellow will not land
near the spot.
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The "long-loser", a fundamental Billiards stroke from which Snooker players
can benefit greatly.
The position is that of a re-spot - i.e. after a foul or a touching ball.
The red is on its spot, the yellow is on the centre spot and the white is
in-hand. The correct placement of the white varies from table to table, but
varies from 2 to 3 inches from the yellow spot. A half-ball contact on the
yellow with top-spin on the white will make an in-off every time - as long
as your cueing is correct...if you miss the shot, you have either lined up
incorrectly or there is something wrong with your technique.
Practice at this shot will develop a pure cueing action, and help you to
recognise the natural half-ball angle at other places around the table.
Trivia: The name "long loser" comes from "Losing Hazard", the traditional
name for an in-off. Potting a ball is called a "Winning Hazard".
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Extension 1 - Leaving the next shot on.
Hitting a perfect half-ball on the yellow will actually make it hit the
red off two cushions, but this leaves unpredictable position and is bad Billiards.
The best way to play the shot is slightly thicker than half ball, with enough
power to bring the yellow around the table and back down for an in-off into
the middle pocket. (You could then play the in-off to leave a drop-cannon
and get to the top-of-the-table).
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Extension 2 - Wide Throw.
The path of the cue ball after a half-ball contact is not actually a
straight line. When hit with sufficient pace and correct top-spin, the cue
ball "throws" wide then straightens on the natural angle.
At first glance you would think that the in-off is not possible because
the path is blocked by the red ball, but the red is actually not in the
way at all.
Try it out and see for yourself - remember to hit firmly with plenty of
top-spin.
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Here is a good shot to cultivate a pure cue action.
Line up a straight pot with the black on its spot. Pot the black and
follow through with the white to go in-off. If you have any trace of side
on the white you will miss the in-off.
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